Visiting Sikkim— The Garden State of India

“LOOK at the Teesta, flowing so peacefully. You should see her in a rainy season when she becomes so voluminous that it is very difficult to compare with her now”, our driver Nandu alias Nandalal told us. All eight pairs of eyes turned in the direction where some people were doing river rafting. I remembered reading somewhere that Teesta has been graded on the International scale at Grade 4 for Safe River rafting.



Last year when we visited Sikkim, the road leading to the Gangtok was being reconstructed. We could see people working with heavy yellow land movers and other constructional machineries; but that does not mean the road looked any less pretty.


We were gaining heights with each successive tortuous turn of the hilly road, and suddenly we started feeling the presence of pristine cool breeze caressing our hot cheeks. On our way, we got panoramic view of tiny villages with houses looking like brown droplets with colorful prayer flags flattering in the wind amidst the greens of tall tress and the river Teesta flowing down fortified by the lofty mountainous range.

We had taken a hired car from New Jalpaiguri station on our way to Gangtok (capital of Sikkim). Though there are buses available from the New Jalpaiguri Station and the closest Airport is at Bagdorgra, we preferred the hired arrangement because we were going with our family, plus it gave us more freedom to explore the surroundings while we were gradually ascending the hill.

My husband, my brother, and sister-in-law were virtually competing with the digital camera to capture the best shot asking Nandu to stop now and then. I wonder how our camera survived the ordeal!

Because of the off-season, we got a fine accommodation in Gangtok at a discounted rate. There were plenty of hotels and resorts to choose from, starting from the most economical to the luxury types.

On our first day in Gangtok, after having devoured some delicious lunch with a huge pizza, plateful of momos (a very light and tasty local dish) and Sikkimese tea, we were ready for a quick local sight-seeing because there was less time left of the day. We visited the nearby Enchey monastry about 3 kms from the town and Tashi View Point from where we got the most amazing view of Khangchendzonga.

We also did some window shopping at the MG Marg and saw Lepcha weave bags, and some other special brass-iron pieces from a curio shop there. Here, I must tell you that Gangtok is a place with frequent rainfalls throughout the year and in our first evening in Gangtok we encountered quite a heavy shower! So, don’t forget to carry umbrella with you.

We also made some prior arrangements with one of the many tour operators in Gangtok for our journey to Nathula-Pass for the next day. We were told that tourists are allowed to visit Nathula only on specific days of the week. There is restriction on the number of vehicles that can visit Nathula on a day.



For tourists, prior reservation for Nathula is always advisable. Foreign tourists are not allowed to visit Nathula but they can visit upto Tsomgo Lake.

Gangtok became the capital of Sikkim only in the mid 1800s. The local crowds are quite an interesting mix with Nepalese, Bhutanese, Lepchas (“the raven folks”, original inhabitants of Sikkim), and Limbos. Here it is easy to spot young girls sporting trendy dresses and short flowing hair talking animatedly with elderly women in their traditional ‘bakus’, so are the smiling faces of lamas in their maroon and mustard robes walking sedately beside- a perfect blend of modern with tradition.

On our stay we found the local people conversing in English and Hindi besides their local languages.

Early morning, we visited the Baker’s café at MG Marg road and had some delicious breakfast with coffee, pastries, and again with some more momos before leaving for Nathula Pass (‘Nathu-la’ means whistling). Nathula Pass is on the International border between India and China and is situated at a height of 14,200 feet above sea-level and is 55 Kms from Gangtok, and it passes through the serene Tsomgo/Changu Lake, abode of brahminy ducks.

Nathula is quite an experience- the freezing temperature and the sweeping wind passing through our ears made a ‘whistling sound’ and bedimmed our eyes.

At Nathula, we also got the chance to chit chat with one of our Indian soldiers. We also saw smiling faces of Chinese soldiers through a distance. We could not take any photos of Nathula Pass as taking photos is prohibited in Nathula. On our return journey, we made a stop over at Changu Lake to relish our packed lunch that we had carried from Gangtok. Finally, we started for our descent to Gangtok.

The best time to visit Sikkim is between March-May when the state plays host to the International Flower Festival every year when most of the state’s 600 species of orchids, trees, about 150 species of gladioli, rhododendrons, magnolias, and other foliages are in full bloom.

Next day, early morning, we started for Gurudongma Lake located at the highest altitude of 17,100 feet. The view of the lake was breathtakingly beautiful and the temperature was freezing at sub-zero. The journey to the lake was through a very treacherous terrain, but looking back, it was completely worth. We managed to savour the majestic sight of the lake for extra few seconds because of our acclimatization previous night at Lachen. Moreover, we knew that we were witnessing a once-in-a- lifetime experience of this beautiful dream-like lake in the early morning misty hours, looking sublime with fogs surrounding it.

Local people advised us to chew popcorn throughout our ascent to Gurudongma to beat breathlessness.

On our return to Lachen, we had our lunch and started for Lachung, a picturesque Tibetan village situated at an altitude of 9000 feet. We spotted some refreshing views of waterfalls. The sky was azure and bright and the breeze was clean and cool and we also had the opportunity to see some different species of Rhododendrons at the Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary.

The next day, we visited Yumthang Valley or the valley of flowers. Situated at an altitude of 11800 ft. above see level, the valley offered us a breathtaking landscape of alpine meadows, rhododendron forests and snow peaks of Himalayas with Lachung river cutting across it. The entire valley cut out an ethereal view of amalgamation of colors with hundreds of species of Rhododendron, primula, and magnolia, dancing in the soft breeze against the vast field of snow as the backdrop.

On the last league of our journey, we spent some blissful 3 days in Pelling (West Sikkim). We stayed at the Upper Pelling because it had the best hotels and offered the best views to the Khangchendzonga in all its glory. The last night in Pelling, we also got the chance to see the beautiful Pelling in the full moon lit night! Try to conjure up a beautiful picture of milky-white mountainous range changing its hue to golden bright at the touch of the magical moon with an invisible magic wand! That ethereal sight made us feel so tranquil as if there was nothing left to conquer anymore; we got ourselves everything at that single moment.

The only difficulty that we felt in Pelling was when we did not locate a single ATM counter and most hotels did not offer to accept credit cards.

The next day we finally made our descent away from the beautiful and blessed Sikkim back towards the urban civilization. Sikkim has changed me forever—I felt myself a new person, a better and a very privileged person with so many priceless memories imprinted and cherished forever –the places that we had visited together, the changing colors of the snow-clad peaks in the moonlight, and also when the streaks of sunlight caresses it , the clouds and rains, the clear sounds of the chirruping birds, sight of wild orchids, dancing rhododendrons and magnolias against the cool soft breeze, the taste of levity that I felt inhaling the air, the smiling people... I can feel it, can you?